Milbon Dye

MILBON's hair dye collection holds 75+ salon-grade Japanese hair color products: the Oldive Botte range (shade codes b4 through b8 in NB and CB variants), oxidizer-included single-use dye sets in shades such as Amethyst, Silver, and Gray Pearl, and dye-only units without oxidizer for professional use. MILBON is Japan's leading professional salon brand, and these dyes reflect the Japanese professional color tradition.

  • 75+ shade variants
  • Oldive Botte range
  • Japanese pro salon brand
  • With and without oxidizer

By Skinsli editorial Updated

Buying guide

MILBON Hair Dye: Understanding the Oldive Botte System and Shade Codes

MILBON's hair dye collection spans 75+ professional salon-grade color products, organised primarily around the Oldive Botte range and the Failkaki/oxidizer-included single-tube dye system. Shades run from natural-neutral (NB) and cool-brown (CB) in the b4 to b8 series to creative tones like Amethyst, Silver, and Gray Pearl. This guide explains the shade-code system, the difference between oxidizer-included and dye-only formats, and how MILBON positions itself within the professional hair color market.

Why MILBON is a professional salon brand

MILBON (Milbon Co., Ltd.) is Japan's largest professional-grade hair care and color brand by salon distribution. It does not sell through standard consumer retail in Japan - its products are distributed through licensed salons and professional supply channels. The brand's color lines, including Oldive and the associated dye formats, are formulated to the tolerances of professional colorists who require predictable lift, tone consistency, and oxidizer compatibility across multiple developer strengths.

Buying MILBON hair dye through authorised international channels like skinsli.com provides access to the same salon formulas without requiring a salon account. The products are intended for professional or highly experienced home colorists who understand how to assess current hair colour, select a target level, and choose the correct oxidizer ratio for the lift they want.

The Oldive Botte system and shade codes

The Oldive Botte is MILBON's flagship salon color range within the Oldive Oujia system. Botte refers to the bottle or tube format of the color cream rather than a specific shade family. The shade codes follow a level-and-tone system: the letter-and-number prefix (b4, b6, b7, b8) indicates the target brightness level, where higher numbers correspond to lighter results. The suffix (NB, CB) indicates the tone family.

NB (Natural Brown) gives a warm neutral result with brown base tones that complement both cooler and warmer complexions. CB (Cool Brown) leans toward an ashier brown with less warm undertone, suited for buyers who want to neutralise brassiness or yellow in previously lightened hair. The b4-NB is the deepest available shade in the range (dark brown equivalent); b8-NB and b8-CB produce medium-light results.

Oxidizer-included dye sets: what Failkaki and single-tube with oxidizer means

Several MILBON dyes in this collection are sold as single-use kits with the oxidizer already included in the package. The Failkaki designation refers to MILBON's mixing system for oxidizer-included kits, where the oxidizer is packaged separately within the same unit for in-pack mixing before application. This eliminates the need for a separate developer purchase and provides a pre-measured ratio of color to oxidizer.

Shades available with included oxidizer include Gray Pearl (a soft neutral grey for over-grey coverage or a grey fashion result), Amethyst (a purple-toned fashion colour), and Silver (a cool silver-grey). The 80g size per shade tube is sufficient for root touch-up on short to medium hair or for a one-pass colour on very short hair. Full-head coverage on longer hair requires multiple tubes.

Hair Dye Oldive Bote 80g Without Oxidizer: for professionals

The dye-without-oxidizer format (Oldive Bote 80g, no oxidizer included) is the professional's option for buyers who supply their own developer at a specific volume strength. Professional colorists use developer volumes of 10, 20, or 30 depending on the amount of lift required and the current state of the hair. A 10-volume developer deposits colour with no lift, 20-volume lifts one to two levels alongside deposit, and 30-volume lifts two to four levels.

Buyers choosing the no-oxidizer format need to source a compatible MILBON developer or a professional developer of similar formulation to pair with the MILBON color cream. Using a mismatched developer can affect the final tone and the longevity of the result.

Choosing the right shade level for your starting colour

MILBON's b-series levels map broadly as: b4 is a deep brown (approximately level 4 on the international 1-10 scale), b6 is a medium brown (level 6), b7 a medium-light brown (level 7), and b8 a light brown (level 8). If your starting hair colour is darker than your target, the oxidizer volume determines whether you can lift to your target in one application or whether pre-lightening is needed.

A general guide: for one level of lift from your starting colour, use 20-volume developer. For two or more levels, 30-volume can achieve this in healthy virgin hair, but bleached or damaged hair requires a gentler 10-volume to avoid breakage. On grey hair, any level deposits without lift because grey hair has no pigment to lift; the result will be the target level's shade.

Grey coverage with MILBON dye

MILBON's NB and CB shade series are formulated to cover grey hair. The Gray Pearl oxidizer-included kit is MILBON's designated grey-blending option, designed to produce a grey-toned result on natural hair or a blended effect on partially grey hair. For full grey coverage to a brown target, the Oldive Botte b4-NB through b7-NB provide natural-looking coverage that avoids the too-dark or too-flat result of many home colour formulas.

For grey hair, a 20-volume oxidizer is typically used even without a lift requirement, because grey hair's coarser, more resistant cuticle needs 20-volume to open sufficiently for deep pigment deposit. Using 10-volume on resistant grey produces a semi-permanent effect that fades more quickly.

Application basics for MILBON salon-grade dye

Section dry or slightly damp hair into four quadrants. Apply the mixed colour to roots first, working section by section, then extend to the mid-shaft and ends in the last five minutes before rinsing to avoid over-darkening the already-processed portions. Processing time for Oldive Botte is typically 30 to 35 minutes at room temperature; longer times increase the risk of cuticle damage without significantly improving deposit.

Rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear, then apply a colour-safe conditioner to the ends before final rinse. Avoid shampoo in the first 24 to 48 hours after colouring to allow the cuticle to fully close and the pigment to set. MILBON recommends its Ordeve or Jemile Fran treatment range for post-colour care within the brand's system.

How many tubes to buy for your hair length

The 80g single tube is designed for root touch-up on short to medium-length hair (approximately ear-level or shorter). For a single-application full-head coverage on medium hair (shoulder-length), two tubes are typically needed. For long or thick hair, three tubes ensures enough color to saturate all sections without running short mid-application.

Buying more than you need on first purchase is safer than running short, because stopping a colour application mid-head and rinsing leaves a visible demarcation line. Unused mixed colour cannot be stored; unused unmixed dye tubes can be stored sealed for up to the manufacturer's expiry date.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

  • 75+ products are stocked across the Oldive Botte range (shade codes b4 through b8 in NB and CB variants), oxidizer-included single-tube sets in shades such as Amethyst, Silver, and Gray Pearl, and dye-only 80g tubes without oxidizer for professional use with a separately sourced developer.

  • NB (Natural Brown) gives a warm, neutral brown result that works across both cooler and warmer complexions. CB (Cool Brown) produces an ashier, cooler-toned brown with less warmth, suited for neutralising brassiness or yellow in previously lightened hair. Both are available at levels b6, b7, and b8; choose CB if you want to cancel warm tones, NB for a warmer neutral result.

  • The number indicates the target brightness level: b4 is a deep brown (equivalent to international level 4), b6 is medium brown (level 6), b7 medium-light (level 7), b8 light brown (level 8). Higher numbers produce lighter results when processed with the appropriate oxidizer volume. Your starting hair colour determines whether you can achieve a b8 result from your current shade in one application.

  • It serves both purposes. On fully grey or white hair, Gray Pearl deposits a grey-toned result. On naturally pigmented hair with some grey, it blends the grey into a salt-and-pepper or silver-grey fashion tone rather than covering it to match the natural colour. It is MILBON's designated shade for grey-blending in the Failkaki kit format.

  • Two tubes for shoulder-length full-head coverage. One 80g tube is sufficient for root touch-up on short hair. Three tubes are recommended for long or thick hair. Buy more than you estimate needing: running out mid-application leaves a visible demarcation line and cannot be corrected without rinsing and restarting.

  • Professional colorists or experienced home colorists who already own a compatible developer and prefer to select their own oxidizer volume for the specific lift and deposit they need. The no-oxidizer format allows adjusting the developer to 10, 20, or 30 volume independently of a pre-packed ratio. First-time home dye users are better served by the oxidizer-included kits.

  • Yes. Both Amethyst (purple-toned fashion colour) and Silver (cool grey-silver) are stocked as 80g oxidizer-included single-use kits under the Failkaki system. Each kit includes a pre-measured oxidizer within the package, so no separate developer purchase is needed. Results on unbleached dark hair will be subtle; pre-lightening to a yellow or pale blonde base is typically required for vibrant Amethyst or Silver results.

  • 20-volume developer for grey coverage, even without a lift target. Grey hair has a more resistant cuticle that requires 20-volume to open sufficiently for deep pigment deposit. Using 10-volume on resistant grey produces a semi-permanent effect that fades faster. For dark natural hair targeting one to two levels of lift, 20-volume also applies; for two or more levels of lift, 30-volume on healthy hair.

  • Yes, for experienced home colorists who understand hair colour levels, developer volumes, and application technique. MILBON is a salon-distributed brand in Japan, but the product itself does not require professional application tools beyond what an experienced home colorist would already own. The oxidizer-included kits reduce the technical barrier by providing a pre-measured developer in the pack.

  • MILBON is Japan's largest professional hair care brand, manufactured in Japan and distributed exclusively through licensed salons in the Japanese domestic market. It is a J-beauty professional brand rather than a retail consumer brand. Products on skinsli.com are sourced through authorised international distribution channels.