Evesel Color Oxidizer Pieces

EVESEL Gold Hair Color kits unite a permanent colour cream and a matched oxidiser in a single purchase - the two-component system behind every professional-grade Korean hair dye result. The colour chemistry is engineered for even, predictable development, lasting vibrancy, and manageable upkeep. Available in 9 shades from natural brown through ultra-light blonde, violet, and silver.

  • Two-Component System
  • Professional Chemistry
  • 9 Shades
  • Made in Korea

By Skinsli editorial Updated

Buying guide

EVESEL Gold Hair Color Chemistry: How the Two-Component System Works

EVESEL Gold Hair Color is a two-component permanent dye system: the colour cream tube contains inactive colour precursors, and the oxidiser bottle contains hydrogen peroxide. Neither component does anything useful on its own - the colour only develops when they are combined. Understanding why the two-component system exists, and what each part does, helps you apply the product with confidence and troubleshoot any unexpected results.

Why Permanent Hair Colour Is Always Two Components

Single-component hair dye formulas (those that do not require a developer) are deposit-only - they sit on the surface of the hair shaft and wash out gradually. Permanent colour requires a chemical reaction inside the hair cortex to create colour molecules that are too large to wash out. That reaction needs an oxidising agent - the developer - to trigger it. This is why all professional-grade permanent dyes, including EVESEL Gold, are sold as two components that must be combined immediately before use.

What Is In the EVESEL Colour Cream Tube?

The colour cream contains four types of ingredients:

  1. Colour precursors: Small, colourless molecules (primary intermediates such as para-phenylenediamine, or PPD) that pass through the cuticle into the cortex.
  2. Couplers: Secondary molecules that bond with the oxidised intermediates to form the final colour molecules.
  3. Alkaline agent: Usually ammonia or a low-odour substitute like monoethanolamine (MEA). This swells and lifts the cuticle, creating the channels through which the colour precursors travel into the cortex. It also raises the pH environment needed for the oxidation reaction.
  4. Conditioning agents: Fatty alcohols, silicones, or natural oils that reduce friction during application and limit damage to the cuticle during the alkaline phase.

What the Oxidiser (Developer) Does

The oxidiser bottle contains hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) in water. When combined with the colour cream, the peroxide has two roles:

  1. Cuticle opening: Working with the alkaline agent in the colour cream, the peroxide helps swell the cuticle and keeps it open for the duration of development.
  2. Colour oxidation: The peroxide reacts with the colour precursors inside the cortex, converting the small, colourless intermediates into large, fully coloured, permanently bonded dye molecules. These molecules are too large to exit the cortex through the cuticle - this is what makes the colour permanent.

After rinsing and conditioning, the cuticle flattens and closes again around the new, larger dye molecules, locking them in.

What Happens During the 30-45 Minute Development Time?

The development window is when the colour chemistry is actively working inside the hair shaft. Here is the rough timeline:

  • 0-5 minutes: The alkaline agent begins swelling the cuticle. The mixture warms slightly as the chemical reaction starts.
  • 5-20 minutes: The colour precursors and couplers are diffusing through the open cuticle into the cortex. The peroxide is oxidising them in stages - short-chain colour molecules form first, producing a reddish or warm phase.
  • 20-40 minutes: The final, full-size dye molecules form. The colour deepens and shifts toward the target shade as more couplers complete the reaction. This is the window when grey coverage is maximised.
  • 40+ minutes: The reaction begins to slow. Additional development time produces diminishing returns and can begin to over-process the cuticle.

The Control Line: Different Dye Chemistry

The Control Line shades (TS Silver, GP Wine, AG Grey) use dye chemistry formulated for toning and deposit rather than for lift-and-deposit. They use direct dyes - pre-formed colour molecules that deposit colour without requiring the same full oxidation chemistry as the standard Gold shades. This is why:

  • Control Line shades fade faster than Gold shades - the dye molecules are smaller and not as deeply anchored in the cortex.
  • Control Line results are more vivid and intense immediately after application.
  • You should not mix Control Line shades with standard Gold shades - the chemistries do not combine predictably.

How Oxidiser Volume Affects the Final Result

The volume of a developer refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide: 10 vol = 3%, 20 vol = 6%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%. In the EVESEL Gold system:

  • 20 vol (standard shades): Lifts natural hair one to two levels while depositing colour. The standard for most permanent dye applications.
  • High-lift developer (12G Highlighter kit): Approximately 30-40 vol equivalent. Lifts three or more levels with less colour deposit - designed for maximum lightening rather than saturated colour results.

Using a higher-volume developer than specified for a given shade does not improve the colour - it increases damage and can cause unpredictable lift results without improving the dye deposit chemistry.

Responsible Disposal of Hair Dye Components

Hair dye chemicals require thoughtful disposal:

  • Mixed colour mixture (used or leftover): Flush down the drain with plenty of running water. Small amounts of diluted hair dye are generally safe for domestic sewage systems. Do not dispose of in the main household waste bin - the chemical mixture can stain bin liners and the product should not be landfilled in liquid form.
  • Empty colour tube: Rinse the tube thoroughly with water, then dispose of in household plastic recycling where accepted.
  • Developer bottle (empty or with residual): Rinse with water to dilute any remaining peroxide, then recycle the bottle as plastic. The cap is typically polypropylene (#5 plastic) and may be separately recyclable depending on local facilities.
  • Gloves and sachets: Dispose of in general household waste after the application session.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

  • No. The colour cream alone contains inactive precursor molecules that produce no colour. Permanent hair dye requires the hydrogen peroxide in the developer to oxidise the precursors inside the hair cortex, converting them into large, permanent dye molecules. Without the developer, the cream will coat the hair surface but produce no lasting colour change. The two components must always be combined in the correct ratio immediately before application.

  • The smell comes primarily from the alkaline agent (ammonia or its substitute monoethanolamine) in the colour cream, which volatilises slightly when combined with the peroxide developer. This is normal and is a sign the chemistry is active. Ventilate the room during application - open a window or use a bathroom fan. The smell dissipates quickly after rinsing. Some people are more sensitive to the odour than others; if it causes headache or breathing discomfort, increase ventilation or apply the colour outdoors or in a well-ventilated space.

  • The oxidiser (developer) does two things. First, it helps the alkaline agent in the colour cream open the hair cuticle, allowing colour precursors to enter the cortex. Second, it triggers the oxidation reaction that converts the small, colourless precursor molecules inside the cortex into large, permanently bonded colour molecules. These are too large to exit the cuticle after the reaction is complete, which is why the colour is permanent. The peroxide also partially lightens natural melanin during this process, which is why even deposit-only shades can slightly lighten hair compared to its natural state.

  • The development time is when the dye chemistry completes inside the hair shaft. Rinsing too early (before 25-30 minutes) stops the reaction before the final colour molecules have fully formed - the result is paler, less vivid, and shorter-lasting than intended, with incomplete grey coverage. Leaving the colour on too long (beyond 60 minutes) does not improve the result and begins to over-process the cuticle, increasing dryness and potential breakage. The 30-45 minute window covers the full colour development cycle for most hair types.

  • Volume refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the developer. 20 vol (6%) is the standard for most EVESEL Gold shades - it lifts the natural colour one to two levels while depositing the new colour tone. The 12G Highlighter uses a higher-volume developer (30-40 vol equivalent) that lifts more aggressively for maximum lightening with less deposit. Using a higher volume than recommended for a standard shade does not improve colour results and increases damage and unpredictable lift.

  • The Control Line shades (TS Silver, GP Wine, AG Grey) use a different dye chemistry from the standard Gold shades. Control Line formulas contain direct dyes - pre-formed colour molecules - rather than the precursor-and-coupler system in the Gold range. Mixing the two types produces unpredictable and potentially muddy results because the direct dyes in the Control Line and the oxidative precursors in the Gold line do not interact as intended. Keep the two lines separate.

  • Rinsing removes the leftover colour cream, developer, and any surface residue. The post-colour conditioner restores some of the moisture and protein lost during the alkaline phase and begins to smooth and close the cuticle. Rinsing with cool water helps close the cuticle more firmly. For the 24 hours after rinsing, the dye molecules continue to oxidise slightly and the cuticle continues to settle - this is why colour can appear marginally different 24 hours after application versus immediately after rinsing.

  • Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is the most common oxidative dye intermediate in permanent hair colour, including EVESEL Gold. It is the ingredient most often associated with hair dye allergies. PPD itself is colourless - it only develops colour when oxidised by the developer. Some people develop a sensitivity to PPD over time, which can cause contact dermatitis ranging from mild itching to severe swelling. A patch test 24-48 hours before each application detects PPD sensitivity before a full-head application. If you react, seek a PPD-free alternative.

  • Mixed leftover colour: flush down the drain with running water. Empty colour tube: rinse and recycle as plastic where accepted. Developer bottle: rinse with water to dilute any residual peroxide, then recycle as plastic. Gloves and conditioner sachet: dispose of in general household waste. Do not put undiluted mixed colour into the bin - it stains and should not be landfilled as a liquid.

  • EVESEL Gold Hair Color uses an alkaline agent as part of its permanent colour chemistry. Whether this is traditional ammonia or a low-odour substitute like monoethanolamine (MEA) varies by formulation version. Check the ingredient list on the specific product package for "Ammonium Hydroxide" (ammonia) or "Ethanolamine" (MEA). Both serve the same cuticle-opening function; MEA has a less pungent odour. Ammonia-free claims in this context typically mean MEA or another substitute has replaced traditional ammonia - the chemistry is equivalent, just less sharp-smelling.

  • Yes. Previously coloured hair already contains artificial dye molecules in the cortex. Applying a new permanent colour on top layers new molecules over the existing ones, which can shift the tone in unpredictable directions - particularly if going from a darker dyed colour to a lighter target shade. Darkening is generally predictable; lightening over existing colour is not. EVESEL Gold will lift natural melanin during development but cannot remove previously deposited artificial dye. If you need to significantly lighten already-coloured hair, a professional colour correction service or colour remover is needed before the new dye application.